You can make SSD enclosures that are less expensive than you might think. Buying an external SSD can be expensive and there are not many options out there. SSDs are newer and faster than external HDDs that may slow you down for things like game, photo and video editing. Building your own external SSD is simple and not terribly expensive either. First, you need to purchase an M.2 SSD with the right amount of storage to suit your needs such as the Kingston UV500 SSD. Then you’ll need to pick the correct case. The main things you’ll want to consider are size and external interface. For size, since we have decided to go with the smallest SSD currently available, we’ll want a case for M.2 drives. For external interface, you’ve got a plethora of options, and these options determine both connectivity and speed. There are many types of connections available like USB 2.0, 3.0, FireWire, eSATA, and Thunderbolt. Most cases offer more than one type of external interface and these are typically referred to as universal cases. USB A, B, & C refer to the type of connection while USB 2.0, 3.0, & 3.1 refer to the data transfer standard. USB A is what most people think of when they hear the term USB. It’s that large, rectangular connection that can only be plugged in one way. It’s remained the same connector from USB 1-3, hence its status as the most recognizable USB connector. USB B is a more square-shaped connector. USB-C is relatively new, much smaller, and can be plugged in any way you choose. USB-C also supports faster, newer standards like USB 3.1 and USB power delivery, and many mistakenly confuse the two as synonymous, but they are not. Just because the connector is a USB-C and it’s CAPABLE of newer standards doesn’t mean that it’s always taking full advantage of the newest tech. USB 3.1 Gen 1 supports 5Gbps bandwidth while 3.1 Gen 2 supports 10Gbps so sometimes there’s a big difference between USB-Cs. Be sure to check the product description if this is important to you. IE - if you are trying to build a DIY Time Machine Backup for a new MacBook, you can do this if you use a USB-C connection that has USB 3.1 support. Once you’ve got your drive and your enclosure, you’re ready to begin. We recommend using a clean, bright area and a flat surface. Have a small Phillips head screwdriver and a cup or jar ready to hold any small screws so they don’t get lost. First, you’ll open up the new SSD enclosure. To remove the panel, you’ll either snap or unscrew 2 or 4 screws - ours here has 2 screws right in the front. Then you can slide the internal carrier out of the case. Here you’ll find internal interface electronics, and mounting points for the drive. Next, you will plug the SSD into the enclosure. This process will differ based on manufacturer but typically you will mount the drive with screws on either the bottom or side of the drive. We recommend only screwing halfway until you are sure everything is aligned correctly, then tighten. Don’t over-tighten it, just finesse it. After this, all that’s left is to plug it in. Interested in installing an internal SSD? Watch these videos: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLAsUq-kEMSD4tkr7cG_Xk2JKCnfv7x2QD Subscribe to Kingston: https://www.youtube.com/subscription_center?add_user=KingstonTechMemory
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