In this video we will actually assembling our custom rig. See the other parts of this series here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQfTftCrPx4&list=PLAsUq-kEMSD7YAZkPdQqswRRlGFKwnVQl&index=1 First things first, before you start putting anything together, you need to make sure you’ve got all your tools at your disposal. Think of yourself as a surgeon - you need to prep that operating table before starting surgery! The first tool you’ll need is knowledge. Make sure you’ve read all the manuals that came with your components. If there are parts missing or you have any questions, now is the time to call the manufacturer. Next, you’ll need a large, flat surface, free of static electricity. Do not attempt to assemble your build on carpet! You do not want to fry your system before you even start. Lay all your components on your table and set all your packaging materials off to the side just in case anything needs to be returned. Actual tools you might need include a Phillips head screwdriver, needle-nose pliers, a brush and/or an anti-static wrist strap. Anti-static wrist straps cost around $5 and can keep you, your case, and your power supply connected to a common ground. While we are on the topic of safety, it’s also good to keep in mind that some of these components have very sharp edges. To install the PSU, first open up the main side of your case. Every case is different, but this should be relatively easy to figure out. Some people prefer to place the power supply first while others prefer to install it after placing the motherboard. It really depends on your layout. We prefer to install the PSU first because it can be difficult to do after other components are installed. If your PSU has a switch to select 115v or 220v, make sure you have it set according to your needs, though some newer PSUs can detect this automatically. Once you are ready, position it with the fan pointing downward and line up the screw holes with the holes on the back of the case. Screw it into place and lay any cables over the case so they are out of the way. Next we’ll install the CPU into the motherboard. You’ll have way more room to install components onto the motherboard outside of the case than you will inside of it, so let’s take a look at what goes on the motherboard before we put it into the case. The most difficult part of the entire build is installing your CPU and CPU cooling. First, you’ll open the socket, usually by lifting a lever, sometimes 2 levers and/or a metal cover, depending on what kind of processor you have. Check your CPU manufacturer instructions to be sure. There should be arrows printed on the socket and chip to help you align the CPU before setting it in place. Once it’s aligned, secure it the same way you opened it via levers, etc. Now we’ll install the cooling. If your cooling solution already has a thermal compound applied, fantastic! If not, use just a tiny bit and spread it around evenly - using the edge credit card may help. If you are using a thermal pad that came with your cooler, remove any protective tape from the die just before installing and be sure not to get it dirty. Also, don’t try to use the thermal pad and thermal compound together, you use one or the other. Once you’ve got the thermal compound figured out, align the support posts for the cooler around the socket and secure everything into place. Refer to your cooler instructions here for exact directions because this will differ from model to model. If you are using a liquid cooling solution, you may have to install mounting hardware on the underside of the motherboard or set up a universal support mechanism - again, all great reasons to do this outside the case. The most common things that can go wrong while installing the CPU and cooler will result in overheating. CPUs get insanely hot very quickly so an improperly installed cooler or booting up to “see if it works†before installing the CPU cooler can both ruin components. The next item to install on the motherboard is the RAM. Start with the slot marked DIMM 1 or Bank 0, then open up the clips at either end of the RAM slots and align the notch in the memory connector to the raised “key†in the RAM bay - not lining this up properly could damage your memory, so be careful. Push the memory firmly into place and the clips will lock back in. If you are using multiple channel memory, you will need to install the memory in the proper channels to get the expected speed boost. The bays are color coded to make this easier - refer to your motherboard manual if you have any questions. And note - when handling RAM, take care not to touch the copper stripes along the bottom edge because that can cause damage. The toughest steps are behind us and we are on our way to booting up own custom built rig. If you have any tips to add about installing PSU, CPU, CPU cooling, or RAM, leave them in the comments so we can all benefit from one another’s journeys.
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